North Korean Saber-Rattling

Harsh words again from N. Korea, declaring an "all-out confrontational posture" against South Korea. Would be just another blip in the news, especially given that NK issues such declarations of fire and destruction on a fairly regular basis, except for one thing: I live in South Korea.

Usually I don't even think about the fact that I live in a country that has the most heavily armed border in the world. Especially now that I live 6 hours or so south of the border.

When I lived in Gangneung, on the northeast coast, maybe 2 hours from the border, I was reminded of the tensions between the two countries on a regular basis, as Gangneung has a military airport; at the beach, in the summer, where I spend a lot of time, I saw fighter jets taking off every 15 minutes or so for patrols or training. The noise of the jets became a part of life there, but their visual effect--along with the barbed wire strung along the beaches in the north--did make me think about where I was living.

I remember my first visit to Anmok beach in Gangneung quite clearly. A friend and I were sitting outside Family Mart, a popular convenience store chain, drinking beers and talking, just enjoying the spring air. Two young Korean conscripts--all Korean males must serve app. 2 years in the armed forces--walked by in camouflage uniforms. One was carring an automatic rifle, the other a heavy machine gun and an ammunition case. I was shocked at the stark contrast between the peaceful beach atmosphere and the soldiers carrying weapons meant for killing.

Some cities in SK still have air raid drills; a siren sounds off and you are supposed to clear the streets, duck into a store or something. Happened in Sokcho when I was there in 2007. Tours of the demilitarized zone, DMZ, are popular; you can visit some of the tunnels that NK built in secret (later discovered) to allow tanks and soldiers to cross the border and pour into the South. North and South Korea are, after all, technically still at war.

The latest threats from the North, however, are probably just preliminary ploys meant to help strengthen their bargaining position with the new U.S. administration. I hope so, anyway.